My Bali surf forecast page

Ulu today: http://www.baliwaves.com/Images/1/2007-7-22/bali01.JPG

Another excellent day at Balangan. It was much larger than I expected but I managed to escape unscathed. I nearly got devastated on my last wave. I guess I dropped in a little bit deep, I pumped once or twice and realized too late that I was in bad shape. The lip was already hurtling itself forward, I tried to peel out in front of it and jumped off my board just in time to get pounded by the lip. My first two waves had super nice drop-ins but were short-lived. The nicest wave of the day came midsession. Just a 50 or 60 yarder but well overhead with two nice bottom turns. After the second bottom turn I settled back into the pocket. I knew I was in the pocket because I started to feel the tunnel vision… where instead of feeling like you are racing down the wave you feel like you are putting on the brakes and the wave is starting to race by you. Have you ever been sitting in your car in the parking lot when the car next to you starts to pull out and for a moment it feels like your car is the car that is moving? When you get that feeling on the wave you know you are in the pocket. Looking forward to getting back in there tomorrow.

Today was the day. Today was the day that I had the best wave of my life. I got on board at the beginning of section 2 and rode it all the way down. Nearly to the temple. I was riding my 6 foot five Jack Knight fresh out of the ding repair shop.The drop in was smooth and steep. I was able to keep up for a while and then had to scoot forward on my board to generate some more speed. The wave started to look like it was going to close me out so I put in a couple of speed pumps. The face of the wave started to get very steep and I nearly lost my edge. I decided to tilt my ankles and slide down in front of the wave. Then it started to get round and try to roll underneath me. I threw down a couple of big hops and turned back towards the Whitewater and all of a sudden I was back in it. Racing down the line. When I finally jumped off I had a smile from ear to ear. You could not have wiped the smile off my face with a baseball bat. On another occasion the two guys before me missed the wave unexpectedly so I seized the opportunity and paddled hard down the already breaking wave. As I popped up onto my board I realized I was already being tossed forward by the lip of the wave. I was in for a nice drop down to the bottom. But I stayed cool and extended my legs and raised my arms trying to keep my board on the wave. I made the landing and cut to the left just in time to see another guy drop down in front of me. I was already a little behind and wasn’t sure if I was going to make it around so I didn’t say anything. The Whitewater caught up with me and I submitted. So there you have it. The best wave of my life and a thrilling drop in. The swell has been rolling in large for the past week and the forecast is predicting another epic week. I will need to eat a large dinner and get some decent rest.

Another excellent day down at Balangan beach. Several nice drop ins, and one 250 yard smoker all the way from section 2 down to the temple. Got totally raked over the reef when I was paddling in. Dented my board, lost one fin, sliced up my calf, my wrist and my palm.

Waves were small today. Still enjoyable. Yesterday was bigger and the first time on my new board. Definitely faster than my old one but will take some getting used to. When skateboarding the day before with the family. Tawan and may Also had a good session. I had the best wave of my life on Tuesday; from the point all the way down to the temple. Monday was also big. The forecast is showing small wave conditions for the next 48 hours; might have to hit the skatepark instead. It is good to have options.